Montezuma's Revenge

Now that I've got your attention, I'll let you in on a secret: There is no revenge in Montezuma. (Unless you count when the direct bus to Montezuma from San Jose suddenly turned into a Mal Pais bus when we were in Cobano, forcing us to take a cab, but that was no biggie). While it's growing in popularity among budget travelers, Montezuma retains its surf charm, something of a Puerto Viejo on the Pacific Coast. There are deals, too. We stayed at Pension Arenas, which had simple private rooms with a shared (and dirty) bathroom for $10 apiece. That's Nicaragua prices.

Montezuma is located on the southern tip of Nicoya, and you have to take a ferry from Puntarenas to get there. Which, it turns out, is part of the fun--watching the sun set on a Friday afternoon, as gulls and pelicans swoop overhead. While the ferry takes longer than the hour you are told it will, it is nonetheless enjoyable and the time passes quickly.

Montezuma's highlight is its 50-odd-foot tall waterfall a short walk south of town. There's a brief walk through a creek and some smaller waterfalls to get there, then you suddenly turn a corner and realize you're in a magical spot. Beneath the waterfall is a deep pool for swimming, and, for the brave, jumping from the boulders and cliffs nearby.


The scene first reminded me of some swimming holes up along the American River. That is, until some capuchin monkeys showed up, scurrying through the trees high in the canopy above. Then, when we were heading out, we saw some up close as they came down to the creek for a drink. Such is the wonder of Costa Rica: Just when you think you've seen it all, there's another surprise around the corner.